Thursday, February 3, 2011

How to Prevent Smudges and Bleeding when Using an Inkjet Printer

Look familiar? A decoupaged bird I made long ago that bled pink onto the wooden block.

Here's the conundrum: You love the convenience of inkjet printing your collage sheets at home, but hate that your images smudge when applying a decoupage-type glaze. Happily, there's several tricks you can use to seal your collage sheets and keep them looking crisp and beautiful. These tips were developed through trial and error on literally tens of thousands of test products by myself and several amazingly brilliant piddix customers who have agreed to share their trade secrets.

The core issue that causes smearing is that the ink used in most inkjet printers is water-based. If you put a drop of water on the print, it will run or bleed. Glazes such as Mod Podge and Diamond Glaze are also water-based (do you see where I'm going with this?). Thus, when you add these water-based glazes on top of your print, it can cause the images (especially the red colors) to bleed.

Most of the solutions to this issue revolve around two techniques. You can: 1. Add a water-resistant barrier between the ink and your glaze so they can't mix and thus bleed, or 2. Make your ink and paper as dry or fixed as possible before applying the glaze. Here are some specific ways to go about it:

1. Acrylic Spray Fixatives. After printing out your collage sheet, you can seal it with a permanent, matte acrylic spray fixative. Plaid Enterprises (the company that makes Mod Podge) recommends spraying one very light coat of fixative, waiting for it to dry, then spraying one additional coat. Read the specific instructions on the cans for drying time (normally 2-3 hours) and spray distance. You'll want to find a spray that is 1. permanent, 2. non-yellowing, 3. moisture-resistant. Examples include: Krylon Spray Finish; Folkart Clearcote Acrylic Sealer; Patricia Nimocks Clear Acrylic Sealer; and Print Guard Spray.

2. Polyurethane. Ryan of Littleput Books, who has sold tens of thousands of Scrabble Tile and Lucky Penny pendants, uses this process to coat her inkjet prints and has kindly agreed to share her secret. After printing the collage sheets with an inkjet printer, she brushes on several coats of a clear polyurethane with a foam brush, allowing for time between coats to dry. One benefit I've found to this process is you don't seem to get quite as many fumes as you do from the spray fixatives.
Butterfly Lucky Penny pendant by LittleputBooks.

3. Nail polish. In a quick fix (you know, when it's 2 am and you really need to finish that necklace for your friend's birthday) I've been pretty happy with one coat clear nail polish used as a sealer. You do run the risk of the polish yellowing over time. I made some pendants as gifts this way about year ago and they're still looking good, but I'd definitely try to avoid the super-cheap Wet-n-Wild-type brands.

4. Hairspray. Another good quick fix recommend to me by Laurie's Custom Thingz is hairspray. Laurie uses VO5 Extra Hold that came from her super-crafty Mother. Rumors around art schools say to use the cheapest aerosol can you can find, but expect that the images will yellow over time.

5. Freezer. I had never heard of this tip before Molly Smith wrote this super-sweet blog post and shared her secret for preventing smudges. Molly prints out her collage sheets and then puts them in her freezer for six to twelve hours before applying Mod Podge. I am quite excited to try this one myself. See below for how beautiful her prints turned out:
6. Oven. Another DIY trick for drying your prints is to put them in the oven at 250 degrees for five minutes, then let them cool off before applying glaze. This suggestion comes from Linda and is another one I haven't tried personally, but seems promising.

7. Drying Time. Most inkjet printers (especially ones under $100 or that come free with your computer) come standard with dye-based, water-based ink. According to Annie Howes, who is probably the most knowledgeable professional I know when it comes to this type of work, dye-based inkjet prints become more stable the longer they're allowed to dry. Annie says "My HP Photosmart Inkjet printer works great after two weeks on glossy non-fast-drying paper (fast drying paper has a film that can be troublesome)." The paper drying time varies by printer and paper brand and may take some trial and error to perfect. If you're making pigment-based inkjet prints, however, Annie has found you can speed up the whole process with only a 24-hour waiting period. Especially for making glass tile pendants, this "waiting" option will cause the most professional looking results since the various spray fixatives and varnishes mentioned above can stay tacky under the glass and never fully cure, resulting in a slightly fuzzy appearance.
Crisp & clear glass tile pendant by Annie Howes.

There are two more things to keep in mind. First, the type and quality of ink, printers, and paper can definitely affect how smudge-prone your print is. There's tons of information on matte vs glossy, paper weight, quality of printers, etc. that I may go into at a later point, but generally, the better the paper and printer, the better the results.

And finally, if all of this sealing just doesn't sound worth it to you, print with a laser printer. The printers at most print-shops (Office Depot, Staples, Kinkos, etc.) use toner, which essentially melts into the paper and creates a more permanent, water-resistant print that you shouldn't have to seal before adding glaze.

For any of you who've tried to fix or prevent the dreaded inkjet smudge, I've love to hear your suggestions (or horror stories). I am always so appreciative of the amazing piddix customers (like Annie, Molly, Laurie, and Ryan above) who help the rest of us by sharing their creativity and tips. And thanks also to the crafters who read this article. Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, so if you click through and purchase an item I'll get a small commission. Thank you!

72 comments:

Molly Smith said...

Fabulous information to know, Corinna! Thanks so much for the mention. I am enjoying all your customers' shops, seeing how they use your collages :)

hugs from Texas, xo
Molly

Mixed Media/ Altered Crafts said...

Thank You For Sharing the information,and great tips!
Bleeding has been a big problem when sealing with mod podge. Now I have some options to stop it. Tee

Unknown said...

I purchased a fruit dehydrator at Goodwill a couple of years ago and use it for speeding up drying time on various decoupage projects as well fresh out of the printer sheets. It's a gentle, even heat. It's speeds things up but doesn't get me in trouble with too much, too fast. I think I paid $12.00 for my unit.

Thanks for the article Corinna!
Kate Smallwood, aka ZeldaSnow

JoaniB said...

Thank you so much for all this information! I have also read that white glue is a good sealer before using resin or mod podge.

GrayFlannel said...

Excellent post and tips. Thank you!!

piddix said...

Thanks for all the comments. You've brought up some great ideas I'd totally forgotten about---like the white glue. And some I'd never thought of---like the dehydrator. Brilliant. It reminds me that I've also heard of using clear packing tape. No idea how that would work, but perhaps worth a try. Thanks again all.
-Corinna

Unknown said...

This is sooo exciting. I can hardly wait to try these tips. Thanks so much for sharing.

Unknown said...

Thanks! I've been looking for some solid tutorials on how to get started with all this. So your site is a huge help.

Darlene said...

Great informative post! I blogged about the article here:

http://cinnamonpink.typepad.com/cinnamon_pink/2011/02/check-out-the-pulp-newsletter-from-piddix.html

http://cinnamonpink.typepad.com/

edmund said...

Wow! this is so impressive .I been looking for bleeding solution for such a long time .Thank you for sharing this information. I found the details very helpful.

EnginerdLisa said...

I wasn't able to get any of the methods I tried to work for me. Acrylic spray, polyurethane, and nail polish all caused the paper to become somewhat translucent, which ruined any areas where images overlapped. Baking, 24 hr waiting period, and hairspray didn't do anyhthing for the bleeding. Guess I will keep looking.

piddix said...

Hi Lisa,
Perhaps trying a different paper might help? I've had issues with see-through/shine when I've used glossy or too-thin paper. This post might be helpful:

http://piddix.blogspot.com/2011/04/what-kind-of-paper-works-best-when.html

Best of luck,
Corinna

Cari Dunn said...

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

Carasmiths ... said...

Nicely done! I found out about Krylex/ink printer trick by trial and error, and it worked, so looking forward to the other ideas!

MCOUSINS said...

Mod Podge now have a paper selaer that works, Ive used and my paper images did not bleed. But I love this info.

Wicked Karma Jewelry said...

I print my sheets out at Wal-Mart (I don't have a printer and when doing the math it was cheaper to print them out there at $0.09 a piece than to buy a printer and ink. I print them out on matte paper (the glossy prints tended to have runs and streaks in the glaze, still have that issue with some but it's much less with matte). It bleeds the pink color too. So would these tips work for this too? I'm going to try the freezer thing, cause I have one of those, lol! =)

Jason said...

Just to say: the freezer thing works -- as in perfectly. I thank you for bringing it my attention and just left a longer gleam of glowing gratitude on Molly Smith's blog. With the stuff I want to do inkjet is really the only option so this was driving me crazy.

Feather Mishap said...

I tried the hair spray and that didn't work for me, but in a quick pinch the nail polish did. I had some spray varnish, it was glossy, but I tried it anyway and it worked as well. I just bought some tacky spray to try next. I'll also give the freezer a shot. Anything to get that red bleed thing to STOP! Thank you for the information!

Unknown said...

I find the type of paper you print on makes a big difference. I have an epson printer (their claria inks are water resistant) and use 100% cotton rag paper. When I used glossy paper, the ink ran but not with the cotton rag.

tll said...

What a disaster :( As a new Mod Podger I did not realize that the inkjet ink would bleed. Even after letting it sit for 24 hours. I managed to salvaged my gorgeous striped background paper and hopefully the art canvas and will reprint and seriously seal the printed paper before I try it again. Thank you for sharing this information and I sure wish I'd thought to check before. I haven't seen anyone comment on this problem in the craft blogs I've read so didn't realize it could even happen. *Disappointed*

Momanonymous said...

Lightbulbs going off in my head. I'm a newbie and trying to do something "innovative." (Like I'm the only one.) You just may be helping (yet another) "craftapreneur." TYVM!

Anonymous said...

Clear packing tape works great!

piddix said...

Gina, I've heard about the packing tape, but have never been brave enough to try it myself. It doesn't look funny under the tape? I'll have to try it.

Annie Howes said...

Corinna was so nice to include my comments in her post above about ink jet prints smearing. Here I am a couple of years later with a new product that addresses this very issue.

Glamour Seal is a marriage between glue and glaze, in that it has a strong bond and dries crystal clear. For glass pendants and inkjet prints, it's an ideal solution. For best results, I recommend using matte paper and not glossy. Glossy paper is kind of plasticky and slows the drying time. With matte paper, the glaze dries in a few short minutes. You can make a glass pendant in a pendant tray and be wearing it in 15 minutes.

For Scrabble pendants, brush a thin coat of Glamour Seal on the surface and top with your favorite glaze or resin.

xo,
Annie

Anonymous said...

There's a YouTube video by Kelly who owns the beading/jewelry shop called Off The Beaded Path (offthebeadedpath channel). Kelly has a video where she demonstrates making a resin pendant and uses the clear packing tape to seal her photo. It turned out well, and it's a no muss, no fuss solution.

Anonymous said...

Im new to this decoupage, just made a small hanging plaque printed on tissue paper, I should have probably mirrored the images then used the other side to do the glueing, I used a clear spray I had in my attic I only did one coat think maybe a few might have helped there was a little bleeding but does not spoil it, well pleased as it was my very fist attempt at it. I love the idea of the freezer will give that and the hairspray a try.. Thank you for sharing the infomation xx

RubySlippers said...

There is a Judkins product called Microglaze that works wonderfully as a first coat to seal the image.

Annie Howes said...

MicroGlaze is a wax and wax repels water. It's going to be problematic when used with water based glazes. Glamour Seal is not water based and won't cause this problem. It's designed to be compatible with inkjet prints, laser prints, and water based glazes and resin products.

piddix said...

Hi RubySlip and Annie,
I asked Judi (of Judikins) about microglaze at the last CHA since I'd heard mixed things about its effectiveness. She said the trick is to put the wax on lightly and consistently (not too thick). Yes, it repels water, and I'd guess it works similar to the clear-tape solution to basically create a barrier between the image and the glaze. Don't know personally how it would work with water-based glazes.

On the Glamour Seal (by Annie Howes), I have it on my shelf to try soon but haven't yet, but just received this amazing, unsolicited review from one of my customers who tried Glamour Seal and says:

"Just wanted to let you know that I've been using the Glamour Seal and I absolutely LOVE IT! No smudges, much less fighting with bubbles, and it sticks better than the glaze I was using so the edges are not separating from the glass when I cut the image out. Very happy with it. I'm using it for the pendants in my [etsy] shop that I just opened back in February. So far, it's the best thing I've tried. If I had a complaint, it would be that the image clouds up when I glue it into the pendant tray, but that disappears within 24 hours and that's good enough for me."

Seems very promising. Can't wait to play around more.

Gayle Bodine said...

Thank You So Much! Had been very frustrated about bleeding from ink-jet prints. So Helpful!

Unknown said...

Great tips. I can now print well.

Anonymous said...

I wanted to use some amazing photos to make greeting cards, but I was afraid if they got wet any time they would smear/bleed. So I came here looking for answers and have to say you all are awesome! I printed 4--3.5 x 5 pics on one sheet of Lexmark Perfect Finish photo paper; they were gorgeous! I have a can of Mod Podge spray acrylic sealer, I took my photo paper outside to my porch and sprayed a light coat. It worked perfectly, no smudges or bleeding! I gave it a second spray just in case LOL!! Now I can create all the cards I want without them being ruined! Thank you all so much for the info!

madmadmama said...

I'm a little late to the party huh? haha! ;) I'm excited to try some of the solutions you provided! It is SO hard to find any info on bleeding!! I almost lost. my. mind!!! I had to comment as Judykins Micro Glaze was brought up. I began using it 2 weeks ago. I LOVE IT!! I have a cheap ink jet printer and use cheap printer paper too. After applying a thin, even coat of Micro Glaze, no more bleeding! NONE! Here's what I don't agree with...that it wouldn't work with water based application. I cover these prints with Mod Podge! No issues whatsoever. The image looks fantastic and there is zero difference between where the glaze was applied and wasn't. I originally tried spraying my prints with Mod Podge Acrylic Spray as it was what I had on hand. Thin coat, thick coats, one coat, several...NONE worked for me! I tried hairspray...nope. I'm here to sing the praises of Judykins Micro Glaze! It's inexpensive (the tiny container will easily cover 500 pages) and it WORKS! Thank you again!!

Julie said...

Hi,
Do any of you know if there's a tutorial please on how to use Judykins Microglaze? I can't seem to find any info on their website.

I mainly use it on emails etc that I've printed on my HP printer. It's ok but all I can see is where it's been put on.

I think if I can't get it to work properly I'll go back to using Epson Durabrite ink which is waterproof. I really regret buying an HP printer.

Julie said...

How long does it take to dry?

Also, what does it mean to buff the document? I don't have a clue how to do that.

I'd really appreciate some tips on it please:)

Slim Shaddy said...

thanks so much for all this info, I wish the people that worked at michaels were half as knowledgable as everyone here. I lost so much time and money due to the fact that no one every told me that the best glue to use when collages is one that is acid free. Also I used packing tape it does work really well, but if the item you are working on is larger than the width of the tape you will see a line where the tapes meet together.

Unknown said...

So glad I came across this blog post. The information is so helpful despite it's been 3 years ago. Here is what I've uncovered through a year of trial and error.

Sun and Moon Glass Glaze: Worked perfectly with my inkjet prints on glossy paper. I just sprayed on 2 layers of UV Varnish. Practically every one worked perfectly producing crisp images without a glitch or bleed. Now let me emphasizes that was in the Winter.

Come summer with the heat & high humidity, this glue no longer worked and every print was bleeding. So I changed over to Matte paper with the same UV Varnish spray. No bleed, but the image still wasn't as crisp as my original batch with a slight cloudy look. Also I had to spray the back before gluing to the bezel tray.

Nail Polish: I tried this on inkjet print on gloss paper. Appeared to work in terms of sealing the ink with a little yellowing, but after completely drying, the print easily peeled off. In other words the glue did not adhere to the nail polish.

I heard great things about Annie Howes Glamour Seal and ordered some. I will keep you posted on how that works.

This has been an extremely frustrating process and is not conducive to high quantity sales :/

Lisa

Unknown said...

Okay. Wanted to update on my discoveries. Printing inkjet on Matte Photo Paper is key! It really eliminates the issue with bleeding. Plus I don't have to wait 24 hrs for it to thoroughly dry. Like I mentioned, I spray a UV acrylic (to prevent fading over time) on the print and let it dry. I tried Annie Howes Glamour Seal and found the end results to be equal to Sun & Moon's Glass Glaze in terms of clarity, bonding and no bleeding or cloudiness. Annie's Glamour Seal is thicker and doesn't spread as easy when you press the glass onto the print, so you need to add more glue for coverage. Versus Moon's Glass Glaze only requires a small amount for coverage.

Another tip. I discovered that rubbing alcohol works great for removing the print from the glass cabochon if you get bubbles or you messed one up. If you soak it in the alcohol it dissolves the dried glue and you can literally clean the glass entirely to use again. This has saved a lot of wasted glass cabochons.

Unknown said...

Very interesting post and comments. I'm about to start some projects with inkjet images. I'm in the UK and glamour seal and mod podge spray acrylic sealer both sounded great, but I can't find any in the UK and bit expensive to get from USA. Does anyone know of any products you can buy in the UK that would seal inkjet images? Thanks.

Julie said...

Hi Anne-Marie,
I'm in the UK too & am also finding this problem.

I think Amazon sometimes have those products, it's still quite expensive tho.

One idea I've had is to have the items photocopied onto archival paper on a laser printer/copier. I tried it at Rymans & it worked ok:)

Dontpanik said...

I just wanted to say I tried my very first Mod Podge project today. I only have an inkjet and no aerosol hairspray or sealant of any kind. I used inkjet, glossy photo paper and put it in the freezer for a couple of hours. It worked great!

Cl!ck said...

I used acrylic spray on photo that was set in a antique copper tray. It was fine the next day but now a week later the person i gave it to sad it turned blue and bubbled.
What happened?

Emilee said...

I just glued some inkjet printed images to wood tiles. Can anyone give me a recommendation on a spray finish. I would like the paper to be sealed to the wood but it doesn't have to a glaze. It isn't going to be jewelry. I don't want the ink to run and I would just like the paper to be sealed to the wood so that it wont peal up or rub off with handling.

Gareth said...

Emilee, try hobbycraft. They do a range of spray glue ( we used to call it spray fix at school ). They also do Matt, satin and gloss spray sealer. I'm off there tomorrow for exactly these things for a little project. Regards, Gareth.

Cl!ck said...

I'm looking for help..ive tried all the above methods and I cant get any of them to work.

The spray acrylic turns blue and bubbles after about 3-4 days. I put modge podge on the tray first,but still got the bubbles.

the polyurethane turned yellow within 24 hours

the nail polish wouldn't stick to the glaze and it came right off

baking it or freezing it didnt work.

im so frustrated, im ready to cry.

also i put on the glaze and it'll look good but then like an hour later ill get a huge bubble in the center - like the paper was too thin or something. i use less glaze and i dont get all the coverage.. I'm using 65lb cardstock.

Gina La said...

I used the freezer method. I put my prints in an envelope and actually forgot about them for a few days, took them out and then forgot about them for a long time. I found the envelope, did my project, and no smearing whatsoever. So I think the freezing must set the ink. Now I just need to get better at decoupage since this was my first time. Fortunately I researched beforehand and learned about the problem with ink jet prints. So THANK YOU Corinna for saving the day!

cozy said...

I am new to this, but I am wondering if anyone has tried using a dry iron and freezer paper? I think it has a waxy side and I would like if you put the printed image face up, then the freezer paper waxy side down... and press with a hot iron, the wax would transfer to the image? I am planning on giving this a try tomorrow to make some coasters using a copy of artwork a friend made.... Has anyone tried this??

Dimi said...

Hi I am new to this and have been looking for a solution to prevent smudging when I decoupage using my ink jet printer (Epson Workforce 630)…I wanted to make some butterflies from my ink jet printer and opt-in to try the oven method above. So I said let’s experiment… I used normal regular 20lb copier paper and printed a black and white picture. I then used markers to color the butterfly in...blue, purple and orange …I wanted to see how the inks would set and behave. I baked at 250 degrees for 8 minutes (I went over the time limit of 5, no problem). I then let the paper cool off and dry. Once cooled I sprayed the butterfly with Modge Podge Gloss Lustre clear acrylic sealer (it didn’t run, ok good so far). I waited until it looked dry and then next used Modge Podge matte tone done to matte finish. Now here’s the kicker… what I found is that after the butterfly cooled down and I sprayed it with Modge podge Gloss Luster Clear acrylic sealer and then waited for it to dry and then painted it with Modge podge matte the black ink from the printer did not bleed or smudge the purple marker I used did not smudge but the blue marker smudge a tiny bit …I think it behaved this way because I didn’t let the sealer dry long enough before adding the modge podge matte…… I think I should use 2 coats of the acrylic sealer giving ample drying time between each coat at least an hour or more before adding modge podge matte to prevent smudging ….I will let you in my next experiment….So far I am pleased with the ink jet Black not bleeding at all in this process. The modge podge acrylic sealer must be used outside in well ventilated area.

Jason S. said...

This is great information that my wife would really appreciate. She's been making those pendants that you were showing for a while now, and has been running into the running ink problem for a while. This nail polish solution really can be something that helps for in the long run. Thank you for sharing.

Darren said...

I printed with an inkjet on ordinary printer paper i.e. not photo quality & left the print to dry for about 6 hours or so. Then I painted over with PVA/white glue. No smudging or bleeding, glue went clear immediately. Perfect result & couldn't be cheaper!

Anonymous said...

The clear packing tape sounds promising, but aren't the lines between tape visible? Anyway, glad I came here because my glossy poster prints smudged real easy, even after 24 hours. I would never have thought of these tips, so thank you for all them.

Anonymous said...

I did not know, or really think about the fact, that the ink would smear, so I mod podged it onto a canvas right after printing it. It was a black and white picture, and large areas started turning green. I was super upset and just laid it aside in defeat. I came back about an hour later, and it seemed the green spots were somewhat fading. I attributed this to it drying. So for about an hour, hour and a half, I held it in front of my space heater. It started turning greener, but I waited it out. After the hour and a half passed, the picture was back to normal and looks fine! Things have to get worse before they get better sometimes.

cara said...

Four years later, and your post is still fantastic! I'm trying to make something special for a group of fabulous ladies I meet, and this is just what I needed :) Thank you!

Mrs Crafty B said...

Great read and so useful. I'm making tile coasters but I want to print the images! Thanks for this!

Anonymous said...

I tried the packing tape over the print for coasters... I made 4 coasters... I used regular modpodge for 2 of them, and mod podge for paper on the other 2... the coasters made with the paper mod podge worked much better, minimal bleed...... the 2 with regular ran, even with the packing tape layer.... love this thread..

Unknown said...

I've been making the glass image pendants a few months now. I have tried several glazes and now have Annie Howe's. I just finished one small square glass pendant. I use ink jet so I have the sealer. I sprayed them a couple of days ago with 3 coats of Nimicks clear coat sealer. My problem: there are still silver spots under the glass. I used a heavy coat of sealer. What can I do now?

Unknown said...

Thanks, Corinna, for allowing me to provide some links here.

Here are some super helpful tips to make Glass Photo Jewelry.

If you're using Glamour Seal to make glass photo jewelry, please follow my free tutorial here: http://www.anniehowes.com/Glass-Photo-Pendant.html

One important thing to note is with Glamour Seal, you do not need to "seal" your images with anything. If you're sealing your image with MicroGlaze or Nimicks Clear Coat, or any other product, you can expect less than favorable results.

Glamour Seal was developed to simplify the process and work all by itself on both inkjet and laser prints. How's that for easy?

If you are experiencing cloudiness after gluing your decorated glass into the pendant setting, try using less Glamour Seal on this step.

Alternatively, you can use our time-saving Glamour Stickies to glue the decorated glass into the pendant setting. We still recommend using Glamour Seal to glue the paper to the glass, as textures will show.

It's much simpler than you might be making it. Keep it simple. You can use just Glamour Seal, or a combination of Glamour Seal to glue the image to the glass, and then Glamour Stickies to glue the decorated glass into the pendant setting.

Here are a few helpful resource links that will save you both time and money:

Glamour Seal: http://anniehowesjewelrykits.com/products/glamour-seal
Glamour Stickies (with video!): http://anniehowesjewelrykits.com/products/glamour-stickies-dry-adhesive and http://anniehowesjewelrykits.com/products/glamour-stickies-dry-adhesive-4x6-sheets
Free Tutorials (some with videos!) http://www.anniehowes.com/projects.html
The Secret to Making Glass Photo Jewelry Revealed http://anniehowesjewelrykits.com/products/the-secret-to-making-glass-photo-jewelry-revealed-tutorial-guide-instant-download

Additionally, if you are making glass photo pendants, avoid using regular weight (like printer paper) or thin papers, any glossy paper, and avoid all plasticky feeling photo paper. When this blog post was first written, Walmart sold an off brand of photo paper that was "breathable", but that has long since been discontinued for the plasticky feeling photo papers.

If you're using inkjet prints with Glamour Seal, I highly recommend using Epson Ultra Premium Presentation Paper, matte, 51 lb. You can find this on Amazon.com, as well as several office supply big box stores.

I wish you all of you the best outcomes on your projects.

xo,
Annie


Unknown said...

Hi Annie,
I love the Glamour Seal. I was having some problems with silver spotting, and now I am not doing any sealing at all after printing with my HP Ink Jet Printer. I find that brushing the sealer on the image and the glass helps with this. Not real heavy but enough to cover all areas .
This sight is the best yet for help with glass image pendants!

Anonymous said...

So useful advices! Thank you!!!

Anonymous said...

How about using a hair dryer to set the ink?

Unknown said...

There are always so much problems with inkjet printers!There was a case when I damaged my project because of smudges! Can you tell me is it possible to find printer that will have never had such problems! And can laser printer cubstitute it? What can you recommend for me! I don't know why. but prices on ink printers becomes so high! I looked here hardware.nu - without any doubts they suggest great variants but too expensive!

Anonymous said...

Not a mod podger... but I'm looking for info on how to create unsmudge-able print-outs. This blog post AND all the comments have given me some great ideas to try - thank you all!

One idea I had WRT to the use of clear packing tape:
The concern several commenters voiced was that there would be lines between the strips.
Instead, try self-laminating sheets (available in packets at big box stores with the special printing supplies like photo papers and iron-on transfers). The ones I use are 8.5x11"
(They work great to strengthen the covers of paperback books, too!)

Justcallmediz said...

The oven trick works!!! You just saved me a weekend of work I thought was wasted. Thank you 💕

Anonymous said...

So, I'm making coasters (white tile bought at Home Depot with felt feet). I have four designs that I printed out on an inkjet printer. I had heard that the ink might be a problem and was told to use a more matte-type paper, which I did. I didn't test if the ink would smear or not since I had used the matte paper, but the ink is smearing anyway! So, here's my question: I have actually already put the paper onto the tile. Can I go back now and use some of these methods listed, like the spray adhesive or the freezer trick? I don't want to have to buy more tile and would like to try and salvage what I have! Any thoughts appreciated!

piddix said...

Hi "anonymous" (above)! You have a couple options with your tiles. You can use some of the methods above on the paper already on the tiles (let them totally dry first). It should help prevent new smearing, but will not fix anything already there. You could also soak your tiles in water, then remove the paper and fixative and start over with fresh paper. Good luck!

Anonymous said...

Hi all, so many tips, thanks.
Im doing decoupage with serviette tissue paper. I now know how to print perfect pictures with my inkjet. I decoupage on canvass shoes and I use napkin podge. The color from my printed serviettes bleed alot. Anything or product in particular you can suggest for decoupaging with serviettes to prevent bleeding?

Unknown said...

so frustrating! I tried using modge podge AND glamour seal and they both make my colors darker and the paper transparent. I'm using Bright White Neenah Premium Cardstock at 65#. Can somebody please help me? I've wasted the few days off I have trying to figure this out. Thank you.

Annie Howes said...

Hi Amber! It sounds like your paper is too thin and porous for liquid adhesives, such as Glamour Seal. Instead of faulting the adhesives, I would change the paper.

My suggestion is to print on Epson Ultra Premium Presentation Paper 51# (S041341) and continue with Glamour Seal. Because one side is coated with a bright white matte finish, you may have better prints to begin with. If you don't find this paper in your local office supply store, you can buy it on Amazon.

Feel free to contact me directly should you need further help, and I'll gladly offer my assistance =)

piddix said...

That is very odd about the paper coming out transparent. I've only run into that with resin on cardstock, never with Glamour Seal or Mod Podge, so Annie's suggestion above on paper should be a good one. For darkness though, I've had good luck printing the actual print out at 90 or 95% blackness. Basically, printing it slightly lighter. That's what I do with my laser printed collage sheets to avoid the images looking too dark once covered with sealer or glass.

Unknown said...

thank you very much for the suggestions! I thought because the # was greater that the paper would be better (so silly). I will try new paper before shelling out cash for a laser printer. Thanks much!

Unknown said...

Just a commentI have not seen tried yet. I had some Vans Off The Wall spray and tried that with a few minutes drying time before adding Mod Podge on a 90% black photograph with great success and no running or fading. The results were amazingly clear and sharp. I would imagine any water and stain repellent spray would work very well if you don't want to wait several weeks in drying time.

Unknown said...

After reading this blog, I tried the clear nail polish with just one coat and it worked perfectly. it was quick, easy, and little to no mess. Thank you!